Last updated: April 16th, 2019
The home of the Terracotta Army city holds loads of rock climbing potential. Who knew you could slurp authentic biangbiang noodles and scrape your legs on granite faces all in the same day? The rock climbing in Xi’an China awaits you. Come through and meet the local climbing community whose stoked to see you send. With crags like these I have no doubt they’ll be many more 5.12 and 5.13 climbers soon.
The rock climbing around Xi’an consists of several crags within an hour’s drive of the city. Most of them are scattered to the south with 10-30 lines each. However, the biggest area Dayu is definitely worth the trip.
The largest area Dayu (大峪) in many ways resembles Beijing’s Baihe (白河). Like Baihe, it consists of granite cliffs on both sides of the river feeding the city’s reservoir. Impressive faces, slabs, and overhangs line the river valley. Boulders of all shapes and sizes dot the river bed. Most notable is Eggplant Mountain (茄子山), which holds China’s longest multi-pitch sport route. Dayu boasts over 100 bolted lines, 50 boulder problems, and 3 trad lines thus far.
Most of the sport lines fall in the 5.10-5.12 range. Grading can be a bit soft, with some variation from crag to crag. The hardest sport line is 5.13b and hardest boulder problem is V8, with multiple open projects. The lack of harder grades isn’t due to lack of potential but rather lack of local talent. In fact, the locals seem confident that there are a lot of harder lines just waiting to be sent.
The season for rock climbing in Xi’an starts in March and ends in November. The summer months are the least pleasant but summer crags do exist. In the winter you’re better off ice climbing.
Xi’an Climbing Guidebook:
Send me an email for topos and a pdf of the latest Xi’an Rock Climbing Guidebook
How to Get to Dayu:
Take bus number 923 out of the city. Don’t worry about knowing when to get off, it’s the last stop- 大峪站 (Dayuzhan). This is what it looks like.
From there walk straight up the road towards the mountains. Within a couple minutes you’ll see a group of local dudes waiting around with vans. They’re your ticket up the valley. Your bargaining skills could get you anywhere from 10-30 CNY (roughly $1.50-5 USD) for one way. Remember to get your driver’s number if you want a ride out.
Your driver will register you at the park gate and you’re in! The crags are on either side of this valley, many right off the road. The last area up the valley is on the left opposite the campsite shown below.
Where to Stay to Rock Climb in Dayu, Xi’an:
Since this area is a popular tourist destination during the summer months, there are plenty of places to stay. You can find everything from a cheap homestay to a nice hotel room with a balcony view. The most appealing to climbers may be the roadside camping. Mengyan, one of the main developers, says they’ve camped many times without any issues.
Your cheapest and most expensive option for accommodations.
Rock Climbing Gyms in Xi’an
Mengyan’s gym Rock Lab is now open in Xi’an. This climbing gym is run by the people who develop the outdoor climbing near Xi’an. It would be the best place to start when looking for rock climbers in Xi’an. They don’t have a website and it’s possible it won’t come up in a maps app yet because it was just opened in the Fall of 2018.
- Price of Day Pass: ¥88 CNY Monday – Friday, ¥128 Saturday and Sunday
- Schedule: 14:00 – 21:00, 7 days a week
- English Tel: +86 135 7211 1583
- Chinese Tel：+86 139 9186 6488
- 34.246826, 108.961601 (34°14’48.6″N 108°57’41.8”E) to be exact.
- It’s on the east side of a dead end street north off Jianxi St 建西街. The Chinese name of the gym is 攀岩梦工厂 (pan yan meng gong chang)
Read Blog Posts About Rock Climbing in Xi’an:
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